Cartier Paris Art Deco Flexible Diamond Bracelet, circa 1930

A wide flexible band bracelet set with diamonds, created in two hinged segments each set with a line of larger raised diamonds on a pave ground with pierced elements near the edges; mounted in platinum • 568 diamonds, total weighing approximately 28.5 carats • Signed Cartier, 85748, Made in France Jewelry design radically changed after World War I. The delicate swags and bows of the Edwardian period were replaced with the strong, geometric style of Art Deco. The new paradigm was based on the art movements of Cubism, Futurism, and Neoplasticism in which squares, rectangles, circles, and triangles were juxtaposed or overlapped to create linear configurations. This style was translated into jewelry design with the creation of new forms and also with contrasting surface treatments utilizing a variety of stone cuts. Platinum was the preferred metal by the end of the 1920s; its whiteness complemented diamonds to give Art Deco jewelry settings vibrancy and interest. Cartier embraced the Art Deco, with a combination of strong geometric designs, and exotic colorful jewels inspired by the decorative arts of far-off lands such as Asia, India, and the Middle East. In this unusual bracelet, the Cartier designers skillfully evoked an Islamic carpet, in an all-diamond palette. The carefully placed piercing around the edges evokes a geometric carpet pattern, while the notched chevron form around the center hinge is a common motif in Islamic design. The line of large bezel-set diamonds down the center adds a strong touch of luxury and geometry. Completely set with diamonds, the functional hinges are turned into strong design elements, giving the piece a slightly Machine Age feel. At the beginning of the 1920s, bracelets were slender, but by the middle of the decade they were wide, a reflection of the new style of sleeveless dress which allowed the jewelry designer free rein to create jewelry to decorate the wrist and upper arm. Bracelets that had been accessories to fashion were now wearable art forms that demanded attention. The combination of Art Deco geometry and exotic influence elevates this bracelet to one of the best of Cartier’s diamond designs.